
This method is generally considered the best method in cooling dominated areas as it keeps the entire attic space cooler, and blocks radiant heat from hitting ductwork and air handlers located in the attic. In addition, attic air leaked into the return side of the ductwork is at a lower temperature, creating less stress on the cooling equipment and increasing its efficiency. In this location, the foil is generally not affected by dust.

- Silverback™ Radiant Barrier is the recommended material for attic foil installations due to its durability and high reflectivity.
- In open-framed attics, the most efficient installation method is to run the radiant barrier material perpendicular to the roof joists, overlapping each strip by approximately 2 inches. Unroll the foil, position it in place, and staple it to the underside of the roof joists with staples spaced 14 to 18 inches apart.
- Trim the foil as needed to fit around vertical bracing. Use foil tape to seal any cuts or openings created during this process.
- Maintain a minimum 2-inch clearance around all flue or exhaust pipes to comply with safety guidelines.
- Cut ventilation openings in the foil directly below existing roof vents to allow for proper attic airflow.
- For optimal performance, consider applying the radiant barrier to gable end walls as well.
- Taping all seams is not necessary for this type of application.


Truss Framing:

- It is advisable to utilize a Silverback™ perforated material for this application.
- In a truss-framed attic, it is generally most efficient to install the strips of material in alignment with the trusses. Silverback™ is offered in various widths to accommodate your truss spacing (25.5 inches for 24 inches on center and 17 inches for 16 inches on center). Unroll the DIY Radiant Barrier, maintain it in position, and secure it to the bottom of the roof joists using staples. Staples should be placed 14 to 18 inches apart.
- Make cuts around vertical bracing as required. Foil Tape may be employed to mend any slits created in the foil to fit around these objects.
- Ensure a minimum clearance of 2 inches around any exhaust or flue pipes.
- Create openings in the foil beneath existing roof vents to facilitate the venting of attic air.
- It is recommended to also cover gable end walls.
- There is no necessity to tape all seams in this type of installation.
Under the roof decking:
This do-it-yourself radiant barrier technique is frequently used in new construction or when replacing roof decking. It provides similar thermal performance to stapling onto roof rafters, but with a simpler and more efficient installation process.
- Silverback™ perforated material is ideal for this task
- Unroll and layout the Radiant Barrier over the roof trusses or joists
- Let the material sag approximately 2 inches between each joist
- Occasionally staple it to secure it in place
- Ensure each section overlaps by about 2 inches
- Trim 2″ clearance around any exhaust or flue pipes
- Cut openings beneath roof vents to facilitate attic air ventilation
- It is advisable to cover the gable end walls as well
- Taping all seams is unnecessary for this type of truss-mounted radiant barrier installation
- Install the roof decking on top as usual
For more information about under roof decking installations. Go to our Under Roof Decking page.
Reflective Sheathing:
While some manufacturers offer foil-laminated sheathing panels, you can achieve comparable performance at a fraction of the cost by making your own. Just staple our 51″ wide radiant barrier foil to standard OSB or plywood to create effective, budget-friendly reflective sheathing.
- Utilize industrial-grade perforated materials for this project.
- Lay out the 51″ wide Radiant Barrier over the sheathing, securing it with staples or adhesive. Ensure to leave an excess of 3″ at the top to overlap the joints between the rows of sheathing during installation.
- Trim the foil at the edge of the sheathing.
- You have successfully created reflective sheathing or roof decking, achieving cost savings.
- When installing it on your roof, ensure the aluminum side faces downward toward the attic.
- Cut a 2″ clearance around any exhaust or flue pipes.
- Cut openings below the roof vents to facilitate attic air ventilation.
- It is advisable to cover gable end walls as well.
See our General Installation Tips for more help on your next project.



